We live hectic lives, there’re no two ways about it. As surfers, windsurfers, paddle boarders (and other watersports) the beach land rush, to catch the forecast, best state of tide of optimum wave size means we’re in a constant state of bounding around full chat with steam coming out of our ears.
Limited time plays its part of course. Family, work, lack of daylight hours and everything else conspires to halt our immersion time. When a window of opportunity opens we take it, even if it’s only small.
Being efficient helps. We’ve talked about splash ‘n’ dash sessions before where having all your kit neatly packed beforehand; knowing which spot you’re heading to and having an inkling what to expect when you get there. At some point, however, you just burn out. Rushing to surf, rising the actual surfing, and rushing to get home all take their toll. You flop…
Sometimes you just have to pull the chord, eject and take a moment. The waves may be 4ft, clean and offshore but sitting on the sand, watching and taking a breather may be the better course fo action. Mind surfing, seeing how the longboard stylist arches, swoops and flows, or the rip shred and tear artist gouges each turn and cutty, can be meditative. For sure there may be a little anxiety of missing the sesh, initially, but that’ll pass. Breathe in, breathe and take it all in. Let the sun’s Vitamin D full rays exfoliate and take a chill pill.
Walking away after a short time, or even then getting ready to enter the water if you still have time, will feel almost new again. You’ll be ready, in the zone and primed. Sometimes taking a step back and appreciating is all that was needed…