I like it big and gnarly maaan! The truth about XXL surfing conditions.

Tapping up applicable social media and websites you’re likely to see a raft of amazing pics from all corners depicting awesome surfing. While for a certain few (read those super dedicated to chasing these type of conditions and/or living close to spots that produce waves like this) the majority don’t have perfectly groomed side offshore wind and waves on their doorstep. Yet post after post, article after article, image after image and vid after vid will have you believing that every man and his dog are scoring massive conditions bar you. Trust us when we say: they’re not!

Ready to paddle out.

When we describe surf sessions as ‘awesome’ usually we’re referring to waves around head high to overhead. There’s nothing quite like screaming down the face of a walled up liquid wall and sending it full power into a thick lip. But yet again, how many surfers really could handle this type of scenario and make it look good? Some can, for sure, but these guys and gals aren’t the majority. Now don’t us wrong. We’re not slating anyone, far from it in fact. Anyone that gets out there amongst things and enjoys their surfing gets respect from us. But it’s worth keeping context.

What’s also worth bearing in mind are those that give it the ‘I like it big, maan’ thing when an XXL forecast does show up. You can bet there’ll only be a handful in the water REALLY charging. Those that have bigged everything up will be seeking shelter or keeping away until things calm down. In some cases there might be a few who’ve paddled out but are very much bomb dodging rather than going for it.

Full force of a storm!

Now, again, we’re not criticising here. Nobody’s being forced into a situation that could potentially be life threatening. There’s nothing wrong with choosing to sit on the sidelines and observe when the surf’s firing. What is slightly irritating, however, is all the bravado you see/hear just as a dart board low pressure swings in. Those who’ll ‘go’ are generally quiet. Those creating white noise will probably be the ones ducking for cover and/or be nowhere to be seen when it’s off the chart. For everyday surfers this isn’t a time to feel down about not being amongst it. In fact, quite the opposite. If you should be fortunate enough to watch the spectacle unfold then you’ll learn heaps. Maybe in time you’ll be out there as well. In the meantime take up a pew and watch the action.

So don’t listen to the hype and chat next time it’s going to be big. Consider your own situation and if you’re not feeling it then don’t worry. Your time will come soon enough…

Check out more surfing goodness over on NCW’s Surfing Knowledge page –