Surfing is more than a sport – that much most wave sliders can agree on (sorry if you don’t). Immersing yourself in the ocean is healthy and good for headspace but there’s more to it than that. Being a surfer means you may have grasped a deeper understanding of life and picked up skills that can be adapted to modern living.
Unfortunately Mother Nature sometimes has her off moods, for whatever reason. It’d be nice to think surf would pump endlessly but sadly this isn’t the case. As such surfers need patience. Waiting it out can indeed be frustrating, in which case you’d be wise to have a back up plan (see below). But have faith and sooner or later the stars will align once again, delivering groomed corduroy for your wave sliding pleasure.
Taking a beating is par for the course within surfing. It doesn’t matter whether you’re learning to ride two foot dribble or charging 60ft monsters, sooner or later you’re going to cop it. Wiping out is relative. But in all cases the trick is to go with the flow and importantly don’t panic. For most of us a wipe out lasts seconds. Relax and roll with it (literally) and in a flash you’ll be back to the surface without issue.
Enjoy the moment
Gliding along a silky liquid vert in the sunshine is utter bliss. For others it’s jamming a hard turn off a pitching lip or slotting into a throaty keg. In all instances take a moment when you can to enjoy the surrounds and realise the gift you’ve been delivered. Surfing is fun, for sure, but it can also be anything else you want; enlightening, spiritual and so on. Having that moment to savour is key to getting the maximum out of each session.
Sometimes surfers need to take a risk or two. But with accumulated experience, born out of years of chasing waves, these risks can be calculated. What may look foolhardy to observers may indeed be less life threatening to the skilled wave slider. Possessing ‘the knowledge’ is how to increase positive outcomes from risk taking. Don’t rush head long into to new situations instead work your way up and use your noddle thereby becoming more calculated as you go.
Have a back up plan
Sometimes things don’t go as scripted. Swells back off, winds turn onshore, unforeseen circumstances arise and so on. If it’s all gone south then don’t mope about wallowing in the what ifs. Prior planning and preparation should have seen you bore out a plan B or even C. It could be doing something totally different from surfing or simply heading to a different spot. Either way keep in mind nothing’s 100% within surfing and you’ll be right.
Inspire yourself to motivate yourself
Losing your mojo is a common thing within surfing. Therefore having a steady stream of inspiration on tap is how to keep those stoke fire burning and have you frothing for that next session. Inspiration is everywhere, and not just within surfing itself. Take a look around, become a sponge and soak it all up, thereby gaining a fuller, richer life existence regardless of surfing.
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