Sam Gill ( so he says! ) “is just a bloke who goes surfing……. a lot!”
(and works part time as an instructor at a local surf school too)
Sam says – Surfing to me is most enjoyable when I feel I’m progressing and I try to get a little bit better every week. My greatest fear is becoming one of those guys who just “goes surfing”, the type of surfer you see doing the same thing in the water year after year after year.
Physically getting better takes time but seems relatively easy, you just go out and purposefully practice a new element over and over. However getting in the right mind set to do this is hard! A coach once said to me “unless you actively try and change your surfing, your surfing will stay the exactly the same” So the guy in the line up I have the most respect for is the guy who is pushing his limits falling off a lot and slowly getting closer to the goal of heavy shredding!
Surfing is all about energy and I try and surround myself with people who are full of Stoke for surfing. My brother pushes me to surf better and is always emitting good vibes in the water, I take notes on his rail work as the spray flies! To paraphrase Brad Gerlach “the waves can sense positive energy and they want to party”. I want to be at that party!
My two children keep me pretty busy and limit the amount of time I have to drive to different spots, so I pretty much just surf local to Polzeath. That’s all good though, the beach has a good crew who, in amongst the visitors, will be getting the best ones and blowing up on a daily basis. There are also a few other places where Harvey and little buddy Craig will call me into some unmake-able hollow ones.
Let’s go play in the surf, I’m out there!
Here’s Sam testing his 5/3 Gulf Stream mini front zip suit. He says “Going over the falls onto the rocks in shallow water. No wetsuit flush at all. TEST PASSED !!”